When You have Lemons, Make Limoncello
Sweet and tart, limoncello is an Italian lemon flavored liqueur produced in the south of Italy, on the Amalfi Coast. If you ever have the pleasure of visiting this idyllic locale, be sure to get the passenger’s seat in the car or the right side of the bus and hold on for dear life. These coasts, just south of Naples, offer some of the most spectacular vistas in Italy if not some of the most perilous driving. On my most recent visit, while careening through the cliff top roads at Italian speeds, our bus suffered a minor accident. While we emerged basically unscathed, our nerves needed a strong drink upon our arrival and seeing how limoncello is native to this region, it was the medicine of choice. Although this beverage is popular throughout Italy, it is, like many Italian specialties, produced in a relatively small part of country; in this case, the Amalfi Coast.
While ripening, the citrus plants sunbathe on terraced cliffs carved into the hills. And while you can see the Island of Capri (pronounced KA-pree not Cuh-pree) in the distance, the terrain is so jagged and rugged here, it feels as though you’re standing in a cluster of tiny islands surrounded on all sides by intensely blue water even when on the mainland.
In the past five years, Limoncello has surpassed all other digestivi as the most popular liqueur throughout most of Italy. This is especially true among younger generations who have developed a penchant for fine dining and quality wines. However, not all limoncello is created equal and its popularity has encouraged scores of impostors throughout the peninsula. From my experience, these should be avoided due to their unnatural sweetness, with the exception of Limonsardi, which is local to the Island of Sardenga.
The Oval of Sorrento
What makes limoncello so spectacular? Well, the lemons for one. Known as the ‘Oval of Sorrento’ this special line of citrus can grow to the size of grapefruits and remain as fragrant as their citrus blossoms. This region is historically known for its citrus farms and according to recent excavations at Pompeii, it is apparent the Italians have grown citrus here since the 1st century, if only for ornamental value.
During the early Middle-Ages, lemons became much more than decorative, as trade with the Arabs taught the inhabitants of the Sorrento Peninsula that lemons could be a powerful protection against scurvy. Now, hundreds of years later, these lemons have adapted to become powerful protection against sobriety. This particular fruit has now adopted the taste of their terroir and taste not much like the industrial lemons we often find in the states, but balance sweet and sour for their own classic flavor. As it grows, the fruit is nurtured by traditional methods. In the groves, trees are held up by wooden poles and trained to grow on a pergola, much like you would see in a rose garden, for example. In addition, growers sometimes use large cane screens to shelter their fruit from getting too much sun. The benefits of this ingenious system is that fruit and flower sets throughout the year.
At a recent tasting I held for NYU Masters Food Studies Students, the class seemed to prefer limoncello with a shot of tonic water, but other great combinations include the use of something bitter like Campari or Amaro.
Limoncello
This recipe was given to me by Duccio Bagnoli, a chef and instructor at Apicius, the Culinary Institute of Florence. If you can’t find the grapefruit sized and intensely fragrant Sorrento Lemons at your local market, pick up large organic Meyer Lemons.
Ingredients:
12 Lemons (unwaxed)
1 Liter Grain alcohol
1.5 Liters Water
700 grams sugar
- Thoroughly wash your lemons. If they appear to have a waxy substance on them, soak in a tub of water with some vinegar. The vinegar will help remove the wax and any other substances from the skin of the fruit. Rinse with water afterwards.
- Boil sugar and water to make syrup
- Remove only the yellow part of the lemon rinds and add to alcohol
- Add syrup to alcohol mix and let stand for 4 weeks
- Strain and bottle.
- Store the finished limoncello in the freezer. Don’t worry, it wont freeze!
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